As you can see in the pics below the there’s cold joints on parts of the board besides the connector pins. Once those things are done make sure check all the solder joints on the back of the board. I use 1N4007 which are nice and beefy and will further bulletproof your power supply. I also replace the 4 rectifier diodes for the display power section (CR1-CR4). Then you’ll have nice solid connections that will never give you problems again. While you’re at it, replace the housings and pins on the harness side too.
Those round pins suck and I’ve chased a lot of stupid problems because of those pins. I’ve found it’s also good practice to replace the 3 headers on the board, J1-J3. A new zener diode CR7 mounted high off the board. You can see in the pic below how I mounted the new diode. You can get them from your favorite electronics supplier. This will prevent them from burning the board more while allowing more air to flow around the component, keeping it cool.ĬR7 is an 8.2v 1watt zener diode 1N4738A. Whenever replacing parts that get hot I always recommend mounting them high as possible off the board. This zener diode, CR7, on this Gottlieb power supply broke as soon as I tried to remove it. As you can see by the burn marks on the board in the photo below, they work hard and get hot. The next weak link on this particular unit is zener diode CR7. It’s always a good idea to replace them when servicing your power supplies. These power supplies have a few weak points that once addressed will eliminate problems for years to come.
#Zaccaria pinball first power up series
Here’s a few quick tips you can use when rebuilding your early Gottlieb System 80 series pinball power supply.
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